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Queso fundido, an across-the-border cousin to Texan queso, often comes as a pool of lukewarm white cheese, its texture closer to plastic than most things I'd normally ingest.

But Xico's version, made with salty (but not too salty) Muenster cheese melted in a cazuela and topped with chorizo, sliced cabbage, radish and the restaurant's tomatillo-based "bricklayer" salsa, is fantastic. Cradled in the restaurant's fresh-made tortillas, the chewy cheese comes close to taco nirvana.

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